HOW TO RACE YOUR FD
by Dr.William Stout, Past-President US/FD
After reading books on racing, an FDer soon realizes that very little
of what he has read pertains to the FD. Perhaps he'll become discouraged
when he reads such things as, "these subtle principles can not be described,"
or" the fine touch on the tiller can only be learned by years of experience,"
or that a certain type of sailor is, "one who sails by the seat of his
pants." Over the past nine years of racing our two FDs, my son and I have
acquired some knowledge on this subject. We wish to make this available
to all sailors or our Class. Weare sure that some sailors will disagree
with some of our ideas. Most of the following information has been gathered
from our observations, readings, experiences, and from other FDers at post
mortem gatherings. By sailing in nine national regattas and many regional
and local races, we heartily agree with Fred Hibbert's slogan. "You gotta
go [travel to the Regionals and Nationals] to grow." We have learned that
the FD is a critical and demanding boat to race, but it is very thrilling
and fast. The great speed variance that exists between the winning boats and
those at the end of the fleet is unique to our Class. It is for these reasons
that we have tried so hard to improve our abilities. Over the years we have
been able to improve our racing status considerably and are now competitive
with the other amateurs of our Class. The " hot shots" of our Class are the
best in the world and as such are far above us in their abilities.
Axioms for Racing the FD
1. Use the sails efficiently and never close the slot between the
main and the genoa.
2. Balance the boat with neutral helm.
3. Sail the boat flat.
4. Follow the wind shifts and fishtail to windward.
5. Observe your competitors and practice tactics.
6. Study the compass bearings, tidal deviations, and race circular.
The proper trim of the sails is" easily" accomplished. While the boat
is on her desired course, ease them out until they luff, then trim them
so they remain on the verge of luffing. Since the wind is constantly shifting,
this process must be repeated at frequent intervals, especially on reaches.
Usually the genora is trimmed slightly flatter than the main. When sailing
to windward, some experts cleat both sails. The skipper then snakes his
way to windward by following every deviation of the wind. For windward
sailing in a good breeze, we strap both sails down rather hard. If
the genoa is trimmed too flat, especially in lighter wind conditions, it
will back draft the main and cause drag. In wind conditions under 6 mph,
the foot of the genoa should be three to five inches to lee of the leeward
side stay. As the wind velocity increases, the sails are trimmed flatter
and flatter. Usually the main is trimmed by adjusting both the mainsheet
and the lateral guide lines. The amount of draft in the mainsail is varied
by altering the vertical tension of the mainsheet. The lateral angulation
of the mainsail is changed by adjusting the two lateral guide lines. These
guide lines are fastened to each side of a moveable trolley which glides from
side to side on a traveler. By uncleating the guide line under stress, the
sail may quickly be freed off to leeward or trimmed closer by pulling on
it and then recleating it in the small cam cleat on the deck. Usually the
mainsheet remains cleated, but it should be conveniently placed so it may
be permitted to run in the event of a knockdown. This method of trimming the
mainsail offers many advantages both in light and heavy wind conditions.
By trimming the trolley to the windward side of the thwart, in light winds,
and easing off on the mainsheet, the boom is free to rise, the mast
remains straight, and all the fullness cut in the mainsail is available for
use. Being to windward of center, the mainsail is not back drafted by the
genoa. With the crew sitting to lee and well forward, as they should in
drifters, this fullness in the main is held in a proper air foil shape by
the heel of the boat and the sail is accordingly more efficient. As the vertical
tensioning of the mainsheet is increased for heavier wind conditions,
the lateral guide line under tension is eased off also enabling the trolley
to move toward the central position on the traveler. As the wind velocity
reaches 12 mph, the trolley is eased to leeward of center, but never more
than 10 inches. As the boom is trimmed in and out in order to control the
heeling angle of the boat, the tensioning of the rig, flex of the spars, and
the draft of the mainsail remain constant. Due to these forces remaining static,
the luff wire of jib also remains taut which enhances windward progress.
Any amount of wind can be spilled quickly and efficiently from the main which
enables the skipper to control the desired heeling angle of the boat.
The slot is maintained, leeward slippage of the hull is reduced, flogging
of the main is minimized, variable draft control is available, and the
FD drives more efficiently to windward. Because the mainsheet remains cleated
in a vertical plane, it absorbs 75% of the strain exerted by the sail. Only
25% of the main sail's force, that of the lateral component, is left
for the skipper to overcome when making adjustments to the lateral guide
lines. This technique not only enhances boat speed, but it enables the lighter
weight crews to remain competitive (with heavier crews) under much stronger
wind conditions than formerly was thought possible. The sails become more
efficient with the mast stepped well aft in the mast step. In strong winds
the mast is raked more than it is for lighter winds. Use the sails
efficiently and never close the slot between the main and the genoa is the
FIRST axiom.
Balance the boat with neutral helm is the second axiom. Balance of
an FD is achieved by changing the location of the center of lateral resistance
of the hull rather than by changing the position of the center of effort
of the sails as is done in some other classes. This is achieved by changing
the amount of the centerboard and rudder area that is in the water and
the trim of the hull profile that is submerged. If a boat can be sailed
on her proper course with the helm in the center line of the boat, or 5°
to weather, it is considered to be in good balance. This holds true for
all angles of sailing. Naturally the drag of a turned rudder reduces boat
speed considerably. Other factors that are employed to maintain hull balance
are angle of heel, draft and cut of sails, fore and aft trim, wave conditions,
bow wave formation and wind velocity. The center of lateral resistance (
C. L.R .) is the geometric center of the underwater profile area including
the rudder and centerboard. By changing the amount of centerboard area that
is submerged, the location of C. L. R. may be shifted in either direction.
By so doing the boat's course is deviated accordingly. For example if the
centerboard were lowered, the C.L.R. would move forward. This added area
forward would reduce the leeward progress of the bow, and the boat would
luff up into the wind even though the rudder was held stationary. It is fair
to assume then that by the proper settings of these two vertical planes that
a state of balance can be reached. Also by raising the bow or by depressing
it, the C.L.R. may be moved aft or forward with similar effect on the course
of the boat. As the angle of heel is increased, the center of buoyance, and
a rotating force prevails that pivots the boat on her keel into the wind.
This effect is similar to a lee helm and is very important to be used in
light airs. This phenomenon takes the place of the lee helm that would be
needed to keep the boat on her windward course in drifters. This, then, is
the second axiom -balance the boat with neutral helm.
'Dink'
Vail displaying perfect form "Keep the boat flat." NATIONALS-1967
The third axiom is: Sail the Boat Flat.
Both crew and skipper share this burden equally the crew by hiking
and trapezing and the skipper by hiking, feathering, and spilling wind
from the main with the lateral guide line. Usually the jib should be kept
drawing to its utmost at all times. Two rings on the trapeze wire are essential,
and the crew should be able to come aft while hooked on the trapeze for
reaches. A centerboarder will only accelerate as the wind velocity increases
if it can be sailed relatively flat. Under extreme conditions, it is far
better to spill a considerable amount of wind from both sails than it is
to try to sail the boat heeled on her beam's end. If the boat heels too far
while going to weather, and the rudder is less than 2/3 down, you'll suddenly
be embarrassed to find that it is not in the water and control is suddenly
lost. Under these conditions it is better to raise the board 1/3 and keep
the rudder down all the way. This will help balance the weather helm that
always exists under these conditions as well as keep the boat on her feet.
The boat should not be sailed as high in heavy airs but allowed to foot.
Lateral slide initially with the board up some is a good thing in strong
puffy conditions. It helps absorb some of the leaning component, and the
boat sails flatter. As the forward speed increases, this lateral slide is
nullified, and the FD will go even faster to windward. Since I now sail
with one of my daughters as crew who weighs only 110 lbs., I also ease both
sheets a little and keep them luffing slightly. Be very careful of the genoa
getting backwinded. 95% of the time when it does, you'll go for an impromptu
swim. The horse on the traveler should be eased about 10 to 12" to lee. Any
more than this amount only closes the slot and increases the drag. Try to
sail with the mainsheet really pulled down hard and cleated, and control
the lateral angle of the main by the lateral guide lines. In the event of
a knockdown, uncleat the main quickly, instruct the crew to ease the jib
about one foot, and quickly climb to the weather side. Usually she will
come back up. If not, open the transom bailers, right the hull. and sail
her out on a broad reach.
The fourth axiom is: Follow the Windshifts and Fishtail to Windward.
Learn to point higher in the puffs and off in the lulls. Never sail
a straight line course, but make many small arcs to windward. Don't only
wait for the puffs, but constantly nudge the bow to weather until the
sails begin to luff and the boat sits almost uptight, then payoff to gather
speed. This must be learned, but the key to the problem is to do it so
often and to such a small extent that your crew can hardly detect it. Always
sail on the edge of the wind, but keep her moving. If you sail too high,
you lose speed, and if too broad, you lose weather ground. By this method
the boat will be sailed more upright, slide less to leeward, and still
maintain hull speed. In summary the first four axioms are:
1. Never close the slot between the sails
2. Balance of the boat with. neutral helm
3. Sail the boat flat.
4. Follow the windshifts, and keep fishtailing to windward.
Lee rail digging in and
boat slowing -see contrast on previous page NATIONALS-1967
The fifth axiom is: In Light Airs, Don't Rock the Boat.
Suppose the starting line has just been crossed on the starboard tack
of the first windward leg. As soon as possible tack away from the fleet
in order to sail in clear air. Purposely the line should be crossed near
the windward end. This permits tacking to port early. During light wind
conditions the crew sits on the lee side of the floor and forward of the
side stays. The skipper is forward of the thwart! Presently the board is
all the way down. The boat is heeled 25 degrees which reduces wetted surface,
holds the sails in an air foil shape, and neutralizes lee helm. The
mainsail is raised to the maximum height on the spar. The genoa sheet
is slackened so that the foot of the sail is 5" to lee of the lee side stay.
The slide on the mainsheet traveler is 10" to weather of center, and the
mainsheet has been let out so that both sails luff simultaneously. As the
boat starts to foot, the skipper moves slowly to weather and trims the main
one or two inches as the crew trims the jenny. Thus the heeling angle is
reduced to 15 degrees. Now slowly nudge the boat to weather, and at the first
sign of luffing, head off to lee. During these light air conditions, one
must be very careful not to rock the boat. Use a gentle touch on the tiller
in light airs and forceful tiller movements in heavier winds. Wetted surface
must be kept to a minimum, and now is the time a smoothly finished bottom
will payoff. Needless to say, a full cut genoa at the luff is the one of
choice for these conditions. Purposely the stays are not too taut, because
the mast should be as straight as possible so that all the draft in the
mainsail will be available. The main halyard and clew haul should be tensioned
accordingly. The lighter weight crews under these conditions may work out
a lead. However, if the wind increases the heavier crews may then have an
advantage.
Bill Roberts showing excellent
form --Crew Bernie Kerr is aft to bring bow out of water
The sixth axiom is: Don't Forget to Plane.
If the first mark MUST be rounded to port, it is imperative to round
it on starboard thus maintaining the right of way. If it is approached on
port and starboard tackers are confronted, you will be forced to
take their sterns and lose your former position. To round, bring the tiller
gently to weather. Once around, the board should be raised more, and the
sails should be properly trimmed for a reach. If the breeze increases to
moderate air (8 to 10), both crew should move aft about two feet. In drifters
move forward; in heavy winds move five feet aft. If weather helm is
needed to maintain the proper course, raise the centerboard until neutral
helm exists. Always keep a weather eye on the wind, and notice any puff that
may be coming your way in order to take full advantage of it on arrival. As
the puff strikes, quickly give the tiller a few hard pulls to weather. Prepare
the crew for this so you don't knock him off his feet. Perhaps he may have
to use the trapeze in a hurry, and if he has lost his balance and is on the
floor of the boat, he will be of little help. Skipper, prepare yourself to
do some hiking, and as the slam hits, hike, hike, hike, and give the tiller
a few good strong pulls. This breaks the bow loose from the water, and as
it pops up, the hull accelerates onto a plane. Start moving aft, and keep
balancing the boat by hiking in and out. The hull MUST be kept FLAT. Ease
the main if you must, but keep the boat flat. As the hull gains stability
on the plane and the apparent wind moves forward, the main is trimmed flatter.
Now you're flying! ! ! Yes Sir, flying as a Flying Dutchman
should. If your crew is on the trapeze and aft in the proper position, keep
a hand ready to stabilize him as the boat bolts along. He may suddenly swing
forward on the wire and land crashing against the side of the hull.
Hold on yourself. To avoid falling, install some non-skid material on the
floors and gunnels. Most hardware stores sell it under the name of
safety tred, and it is used on porch steps as a safety non skid device.
On these exhilerating planes; with surf flying and hull lurching, the FD
must be ridden and balanced like a surf board. Strong quick tiller movements
are necessary to keep on course. Both sheets must be constantly adjusted
to insure proper sail trim. I have heard and seen many sailors shout and
scream with delight as they thrill to these phenomenal bursts of speed.
The seventh axiom is: The Little Known "SUPERPLANE"
Now for the real thrill, the "Superplane." As a group of boats charge
toward a leeward mark, suddenly one particular hull may fly past the others
as if it were possessed. Don't attempt to stop it by luffing it up; you'll
fail. Study it as it goes past, and try to figure out how it is being
done. The first time I experienced this was during the Nationals
at Nantuckett. Austin Platt showed me his transom too many times. During
the same regatta Eric Olson screamed past Harry Sindle on a superplane.
Later during the cocktail hour I confronted Harry with the questions
how and why. Harry replied, "We wanted to know also. As Eric passed us,
we noted his crew was positioned one foot further aft than my crew. As soon
as my crew moved aft, we held our own with him and took him on the next beat."
This only proves the great importance one must place on the many variable
factors that control boat balance and sail efficiency. It is the summation
of these small important factors that are responsible for the great speed
variance that exists in the FD Class.
US National Champs -Bud
Melges, Bill Bentsen --observe that twist in the main
The eighth axiom is: Don't Capsize on a Jybe.
By now I am sure we have reached the next mark. Let's jybe and round
it. Always look over your shoulder first. You may not wish to jybe
in that heavy puff or smash into another boat that may be crowding
you for inside buoy room. Check the centerboard, and be sure it is 2/3 down
or the boat will not respond to the tiller. Warn the crew, and wait for
his OK. It's easy to pin him under the boomvang, and you will be forced to
do the job entirely by yourself. Pull the tiller quickly and with a strong
arm. Reach up and grab the sheet, and start the boom across, but let go so
as not to lose an arm. Move across the boat, and as the boom slams over, hike
and payoff before the wind to neutralize the forces. Once started, this procedure
must be executed without any hesitation. Seek out the new rhumb line, check
the compass bearings, and try to maintain your lead. Suppose the wind
has increased to over 15 mph, start the next beat with the board up
1/4 to 1/3 of the way, the spars bent to their limit, both sails cleated,
and the lateral guideline in your hand. Always have the mainsheet close
by, either under your buttocks or over your knee, in order to pop it loose
in the event of a knockdown.
...Bill Stout, Manheim, Fa.
[Editor's note: This article first appeared in Trapeze magazine
in 1964 and was reprinted several times through the decades. Only minor
editing was necessary to bring the content in line with current rules. All
of the lessons are remarkably cogent to racing the FD today, and beginning
sailors will do well learn these axioms.]